Restaurant Review

Avery and her partner (in both life and work), Ryan McLaughlin, weren’t actively looking for a restaurant space when they made the move to the Hudson Valley in 2024, but when they learned that Sarah Gaskins, a longtime friend of Ryan’s and former owner of Gaskins Restaurant, was quietly looking for a buyer for the building, it was kismet.

“We found we really thrived when helping each other with work, leading us to want to collaborate and create opportunities for growth for one another,” says Avery Janelli, the co-owner of newly-opened Nines Restaurant in Germantown, NY.

Ryan has known the former owners of Gaskins, Nick and Sarah, for many years. Gaskins thrived in Germantown for nine years, so when Avery and Ryan learned that they were looking for a specific buyer – someone who would be a responsible employer and an active part of the community – they knew they could be the right fit.

“We saw that the location offered a lot that would make the endeavor realistic for us. For example, it was fairly turn-key. We were able to sustain so many elements, from the kitchen equipment to the tableware. It didn’t need a full build-out, just a quick refresh,” Avery explains. “Not to mention, it came with a great reputation and the good-will of the community.” 

What ultimately came to fruition in the classic 2 Church Ave location is Nines, a casual neighborhood restaurant that is approachable, comfortable, and ordinary in the best way. “Our shorthand for this is ‘easy and unfussy’.” 

From Kitchens in Philly and NYC to the Hudson Valley 

Avery and Ryan have been working in restaurants and hospitality for nearly their entire working lives. The now Hudson Valley residents have experience in both Philadelphia and New York City, where they honed their skills on both sides of the kitchen door. 

From 2015 to 2024, Avery worked at High Street Hospitality Group, an independent restaurant group in Philadelphia that has been nationally recognized extensively over the years. She worked first as a manager, opened and closed restaurants along the way, and eventually became the director of special projects, which involved brand development, people and culture-related projects, and supporting teams across the organization. 

Ryan, on the other hand, began his career as a chef in famous New York City kitchens such as Blue Hill on Washington Place and Per Se in Columbus Circle. He then moved on to become the chef at the Vanderbilt in Brooklyn, and in 2012, arrived in the Hudson Valley where he ran kitchens at Swoon in Hudson and Gedney Farm in Great Barrington, MA, among others. In 2022, Ryan began supporting the rapid growth of Other Half Brewing, located in Brooklyn, before returning to the Hudson Valley with Avery in 2024. 

“From 2022 to 2024, Ryan split time between the Hudson Valley and Philadelphia while working for Other Half Brewing. We became a couple and discussed moving to the Hudson Valley together at some point,” Avery shares. “When I finished a big project, I suggested that we seize the opportunity to move, lest I get involved in something I wouldn’t want to walk away from! I’d been spending weekends up here and although it was hard to sacrifice the professional network I’d built over many years, it was a good time for the challenge of a new place.”

On the menu at Nines 

When thinking about opening their own restaurant, Avery and Ryan knew they wanted to do Italian cuisine. However, it was important that they were able to incorporate the French culinary approach, which is the foundation of Ryan’s cooking. They were particularly inspired by the Riviera, where French and Italian cooking styles converge; the dining is casual and includes a lot of seafood. 

They note that the “elegant yet casual” style of Ligurian cooking is especially an inspiration for the cuisine at Nines. Ligurian cuisine comes from a crescent-shaped coastal region in northwestern Italy and is characterized by fresh, simple ingredients and known for aromatic, vegetable-forward, and herb-rich dishes. 

“It is important for us to be a family and an everyday restaurant, where there are dishes that change often and some that are almost always on the menu,” Avery says.

Ryan has a long history with many farmers located in the Hudson Valley, creating deep connections that bring the food directly from farm to plate. Nines sources many vegetables from Mx Morningstar Farm in Hudson and Plane Meadow Farm in Clinton Corners, chickens and rabbits from Northwind Farm in Tivoli, and beef from Kinderhook Farm in Valatie. 

Making hospitality accessible 

“In a way, I think we want to be sort of ordinary,” says Avery. “We believe a good meal, in a cared-for space, with hosts interested in their guests’ well-being, shouldn’t be hard to come by.” 

But more than just taking care of their guests, Avery and Ryan also endeavor to create a fulfilling and supportive environment for their staff too. They believe that restaurant jobs should “work for people’s lives,” and communication, clear standards, mentorship, professionalism, goal orientation, progression, and real collaboration from the whole team all contribute to the real quality in the food. 

“Part of hospitality is making the most generous assumption about people. This applies to our dynamic with guests, but it also applies to the team internally. We assume the best from our colleagues.”

Up ahead

Now that summer has rolled around, Nines plans to offer lunch on the weekends. Their closed day is Thursday, which affords them the opportunity to deep clean and prepare the space ahead of the weekend. However, Avery and Ryan also see Thursday as a good day for special service, such as hosting a visiting chef or collaborating with another restaurant. 

Additionally, they are also planning to host some industry-focused gatherings, including a panel discussion on current trends in beverages. “But mostly, we are just focused on our core offerings: improving cultivating organizational health; and finding consistency, ease, and efficiency for our team.” 

Avery and Ryan note that being a neighborhood restaurant means getting to know their customers, learning their preferences, and understanding what is most useful to them. “We are curious! We want to know what our wine lovers would like to see on the list. We want to know if offering the deck for private parties would be helpful. Is there an appetite for happy hour? For visiting chefs? Ryan and I are pretty much always here and we are thrilled when our guests tell us what they are looking for and what serves them best.” •

Nines is located at 2 Church Ave, Germantown, NY. Visit them online at ninesgermantown.com and keep up with them on Instagram @ninesgermantown for more information.