Our Environment, Animal Tips & the Great Outdoors
I Thrifted It! An Investigation Into the World of Secondhand Clothes Shopping
Throughout my life, I’ve struggled with a bit of a germ problem. Particularly when the pandemic hit, and I barely did anything outside the house, my concern whenever I did branch out was underscored by the threat of getting sick. My approach to fending off the virus, besides masks, looked like: Purell application before and after everything I did, the very adamant “inside” and “outside” clothes distinction (I still adhere to this, more or less); wiping down my phone screen and wallet (any and all surfaces) with antibacterial wipes; and washing all my clothes, showering, and washing my hair after nearly any instance of going outside.
As you can imagine, then, the concept of used clothing was a difficult one for me. I didn’t like the thought of wearing something that other people had also worn, even if it had been through the laundry, and even if it was exactly the style for which I was looking.
For the sake of this article, I will be using the term “thrifting” as a sort of catch-all term, synonymous with purchasing secondhand clothing in any way, even though I recognize that for many people, there are more significant distinctions than that. In addition to parsing through Goodwill racks, I began my preloved clothing journey by searching through online marketplaces and vintage shops, although the act of thrifting can often be confined to the former description. Nonetheless, I will use the word more broadly to encompass the increasing variety of purchasing methods.
By exploring the many approaches to thrifting for myself, I was able to set aside my germ worries, taking a leap of faith into the world of secondhand clothes and seeing for myself how this process brings nostalgic trends back into the realm of popularity.
The evolution of thrifting
In “People Have Been Reusing Clothes Forever But Thrift Shops Are Relatively New. Here’s Why,” Time’s Olivia B. Waxman references historian Jennifer Le Zotte’s work, From Goodwill to Grunge, in outlining the origins of thrifting. And while Waxman’s article is from August 17, 2018, these insights still apply today. She writes that shopping secondhand was initially highly stigmatized in the late 19th century until a later uptick in popularity prompted a cultural reimagining of what it means to thrift and be charitable. Waxman explains that thanks to the industrial revolution, clothing was increasingly viewed as disposable.
According to Waxman, after the Great Depression and World War II, when people could not afford new clothing, secondhand shopping truly took off; clothing donations were on the rise, as was the success of stores from well-known thrift names like Goodwill and the Salvation Army, in tandem with the emergence of consignment stores showcasing vintage and luxury items.
Changing perceptions
Now, the concept of thrifting holds a mystery and possibility that makes it a fun and trendy activity. Beyond merely shopping for clothes, going to a thrift store – or a vintage store with more expensive, hand-selected choices – has no guarantee of what you will find, and that’s what makes it so popular. There’s the chance you’ll find a goldmine and walk out spending $5 or less per item. Or there might not be anything that catches your eye. You’ll never know, though, until you walk in and start perusing.
My friend Caitlin, a recent Marist College fashion design graduate, reflects these sentiments when explaining why she prefers to thrift. “I like that each piece is one of one at a thrift store and when you leave you feel like you discovered a hidden gem that no one else has. It’s the best feeling when you’ve been looking for hours and you stumble upon a cool item that you can’t believe no one else has found yet.”
I love that shirt, where’d you get it?
Whether buying through digital platforms like Poshmark, Depop, and Vinted, or going to a thrift, consignment, or vintage store, there are so many ways to buy secondhand. These options are generally preferable to many, both socially and practically.
According to Kelsey Vlamis’ March 25, 2024 article for Business Insider, “Thrifting is more popular than ever. It’s also never been worse,” the way that Gen Z has popularized thrifting has certainly changed the essence of the process, while also making it more well-respected. To me, the ability to respond with “I thrifted it!” when someone asks me where I got a piece of clothing is an immensely feel-good moment. Arizona State University FIDM professor Nicole Craig told Vlamis that thrifting has been both destigmatized and granted a level of pride, reinforcing this phenomenon.
As explained in “The history of thrift shopping: Exploring the origins and evolution of the thrift industry,” published on March 1, 2023 by online thrift organization Goodfair, there is a “thrill of the hunt” aspect to thrifting, too, that can motivate shoppers and produce extremely unique rewards. Craig also explained this concept to Vlamis, wherein some people don’t mind sifting through tons of clothing so long as they can stumble upon those affordable, stand-out discoveries.
For this reason, I often can make a day out of the endeavor, complete with an iced coffee, a hefty tote bag, and a nice walk. Thrifting has become a truly engaging pastime, combining a sense of adventure and the excitement of buying something new.
It’s super fashionable, too
Another benefit of shopping secondhand is that it has opened my eyes to the stylish potential of preloved clothes: vintage sweaters with stunning patterns, intricately embroidered blouses from the early 2000s, durable pairs of baggy jeans made from wonderfully worn denim. By dissecting thrift store racks and making strategic searches and offers on Depop – my online clothing marketplace of choice – I’ve been able to improve my wardrobe in major ways while also feeling more confident in what I wear.
To Caitlin, while it might take a little patience at times, looking for that special piece is always worth it. “What I look for typically depends on what I’m currently feeling inspired by or what I feel like I’m lacking in my wardrobe. I love color, beading, patterns, and anything that feels unique.”
And much like myself, she’s found that shopping for preloved clothes often comes with a world of newfound possibilities. “Before I started thrifting, I would have never worn some of the eclectic and funky pieces I love now, but since then, I started to become obsessed with finding the most unique pieces possible.”
The ethics of buying secondhand
Therefore, the benefits seem endless: cheaper clothing items that range in styles, spanning decades of trends. That being said, the process of thrifting turns consumerism into a more sustainable act, preventing new clothing material from contributing to the global, ever-present waste problem. As someone who, in addition to germs, has also reckoned with my own environmental impact, the ecological principles and endless options that come with thrifting are what fully changed my tune about buying preloved clothes.
Caitlin underscores the serious environmental and ethical concerns underlying today’s clothing market: “Fast fashion and overconsumption are such large issues and thrifting reduces the amount of clothing that gets sent to landfills and becomes excess waste.”
In her approach to fashion design, Caitlin is committed to applying these ecological and ethical tenets throughout her work. “Over the past couple of years I’ve tried to repurpose and upcycle as many of my materials as possible. The fashion industry is incredibly unsustainable, so I’ve made it a mission to improve my process in any way that I can in order to make a difference.”
Goodfair points out that in addition to keeping clothes in circulation for longer, thrifting offers a more economically beneficial and socially thoughtful way to shop in response to this surge in fast fashion.
It is important to add, though, that amidst these overwhelmingly positive elements, there have been impacts to the very nature of thrifting. Vlamis explains that the changing thrift climate has led to resellers who scout out the cheap, better quality clothing before people who rely on thrift stores and are in-need of thrifting’s accessibility can discover it. This way, she notes, the sought-out items in good condition remain in circulation on curated sites for higher prices, rather than at Goodwill for more feasible rates, making in-person thrifting more difficult overall.
Becoming the seller
Recently, because of the uptick in secondhand shopping online, I’ve begun to list some of my own clothes on Depop – something I never thought I’d start doing. But especially when it comes to more expensive clothing, there’s an undeniable appeal to the platform, and it’s fulfilling being able to sell directly to another person, answer their questions, and, sometimes, even receive feedback about the item when they’ve received it.
I choose to donate a majority of my clothes locally when I’m clearing out my closet, but it’s definitely nice to have online communities like Depop as an option to keep certain materials in circulation via the digital marketplace. It is a privilege, though, to be able to move around my clothing options in this way, and I recognize that donating is, after all, an essential part of the thrifting ecosystem.
In retrospect, I’m glad that I’ve broadened my horizons and changed up my style with secondhand shopping. Now, when it comes to sweaters, jeans, and tops, I almost exclusively buy preloved, and looking back on all the clothing I’ve found, these pieces tend to be better-quality and more eye-catching than clothes that I’ve bought new.
I think part of this noteworthy quality is sourced from the histories that come with each item – they truly become artifacts in their own right. Telling me about what makes these clothes so remarkable, Caitlin explains this aspect best. “I always shop secondhand and honestly can’t remember the last time I purchased a completely new piece of clothing,” she shares. “It’s one of my favorite things to do because I love that every piece that I thrift comes with a story.”