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There’s a reason the phrase In Vino Veritas has endured since its attribution to the Greek historian, Herodotus, in the fifth century BC. About 600 years later, it’s credited to the Roman philosopher and naturalist Pliny the Elder, who used the exact phrase in Book 14 of his tome, Naturalis Historia. What does it mean?

In Wine, There Is Truth.

And there it is, the immutable acknowledgement that from the beginnings of human interactions on earth, alcohol, but wine in particular, loosens the tongue and reveals the hidden self. 

And there we were, my friend and I, participating in this most delectable of human conditions on a dazzling sunny September Saturday afternoon in Hudson, NY. The occasion? A tasting of Neverstill wines in the winery’s Hudson Valley home at the top of Warren Street. Truth be told? The tasting room is a very special place, and the wines are wonderful.

Neverstill is the creation of its owner and president, Christy Counts, an Oklahoma girl who fell in love with California wines, moved to New York state with her family, became a convert to what was happening with wine in the Finger Lakes, and was also smitten with the vibe of Hudson. Her passions, palate, and perseverance – and acute senses of style and setting – led to the purchase of a vineyard, the creation of a line of wines, and the establishment of a showcase location for the wines. And if you think that’s impressive, wait til you try the wines!

Bitten by the wine bug

All wine enthusiasts have an “aha” moment when interest shifts from simple enjoyment to wanting to understand more about what it is you’re enjoying so much. For Christy that happened in Napa after talking to John Williams about his Frog’s Leap Winery wines. It was the seed that led her to take a deeper dive into the world of wine, one that took root even while she led the Oklahoma Humane Society (which she founded in 2007), a seriously full-time job! Christy was president and executive director of OK Humane until 2014, when she and her family made the move to Bedford, NY. 

A winery wasn’t at the top of the list when they arrived here, either. Christy became the executive vice president of the Arnall Family Foundation, where she developed the Right Horse Initiative, a national collaboration to support horses in (ownership) transition. 

California still reigned as a dream spot for wine and wineries for Christy, but travels to the Finger Lakes changed her perspective about what’s possible right here in New York. When she learned of a vineyard plot that was coming up for sale in what she considered a dream location on the left bank of Seneca Lake, she couldn’t resist. 

She purchased the nine-acre property that is now Hidden View Vineyard. It was planted with varietals that are well established in the Finger Lakes – Riesling and Cabernet Franc – but there was also Chardonnay there, and a less commonly planted grape, Chenin Blanc. She understood the potential for the wines that could come from these vines. The winery dream was well underway. 

With a vineyard, a winery

What would she call her winery? She arrived at the word “neverstill” after learning that the Mohicans called the Hudson River “Mahicannituck,” which translates to “the river that flows both ways,” or “waters that are never still.” 

“I like the name not only for its reference to the Hudson River,” Christy says, “but also because I remember being a child and being told to ‘sit still,’ and the reluctance all of us have to just sit still. Wine,” she adds, “is like humans that way. It is ever evolving. It is never still.”

The name is apt for Christy in several ways. It helps tell the story of her wines, yes, and, in vino veritas, it tells her story. It’s the rare person who can orchestrate a winery based on a vineyard and winemaking team in the Finger Lakes with the establishment and operation of a tasting room in a funky town in the Hudson Valley. Christy is a champion of it all. “Hudson is fascinating,” she says, explaining why she chose the town as the location for her tasting room. “The people are wildly interesting. The conversations and connections that happen in Hudson are why we’re there.”

A place to taste

The tasting room opened just over a year ago. It was designed by Amy Ilias with a focus on experience. It’s a place where the wines take center stage, but every detail helps set that stage. When you walk in, you feel welcomed. You feel special. You feel cared for and comfortable. You feel like you want to settle in and stay a while. 

When we came to the tasting room for our experience, Warren greeted us with his winning smile, introducing us to the space and the concept as “a kiss to New York.” How great is that? When I mentioned that to Christy, she was delighted. “Yes,” she said, “that’s a good way to look at it. It’s important to work with people who are passionate about the wines and who are excited to work for a small brand.” 

Warren and Jaime, who conducted our tasting for us, were all of that.

Warren became interested in wine during COVID, and has gone on to earn his WSET III (Wine & Spirit Education Trust). Level III is quite challenging, and it’s really fun to hear Warren talk about flavor profiles of grapes and how the Neverstill wines are crafted to best express them. 

Jaime grew up in Napa, where the wine world was unavoidable. Her career in tech brought her from San Francisco to New York, but her connection to wine – and the experience of it, was always there. After meeting Christy to learn more about the winery, she knew Neverstill was a place she wanted to be part of. She is a champion of the line, and also of the locally sourced nibbles that are offered to accompany the tasting there. 

Let’s get to the wines

Neverstill currently offers six wines. They are a PetNat made with Cayuga White, a Chenin Blanc, two Rieslings, a Rosé, and a Cabernet Franc that was just recently released. 

We tried all of them during our time at the tasting room, and they were all, in vino veritas, exceptional. Truly. Expressive, bright, clean, unique, delightful. All are made with estate-grown fruit except the PetNat, though the wine itself was made by Neverstill’s winemaking team.

For those unfamiliar with it, the increasingly popular PetNat style is considered a natural wine style. PetNat is short for the French term pétillant naturel, which translates to “naturally sparkling.” It’s a method of bottling wine before the first fermentation is complete so that it finishes in the bottle. This yields a soft bubble in the wine, and because it is unfiltered and unfined, there’s often a cloudy appearance. “I attended a convention where PetNats were tasted,” Christy says, “and their light, fresh qualities really appealed to me.”

Asking a winery owner which wine is a favorite is like asking a parent which child is a favorite. Impossible! But everyone asks, so I did too. And while Christy sang the praises of each of the wines, when we got to the Rieslings, her tone changed a tad. Neverstill crafts two Rieslings, a “classic” and a “reserve.” What differentiates the reserve is the clone of the grape (Clone 239), additional skin contact at the start of fermentation, the use of a “wild” indigenous yeast from Hidden View vineyard, and some post-fermentation time “sur lie”(on the yeast cells). All provide distinctive depth and character. 

“Riesling is a most magical varietal,” Christy explains. “It has the ability to show nuances. It’s a heavy lifter; I just love it!,” she continues, adding, with a hint of sarcasm, “I’m drawn to heavy lifters.”

Beyond the wines

It’s easy and pleasing to sink into conversation about the wines themselves, and there’s a lot there. If you’re a wine enthusiast, you will be at home at Neverstill, and you’ll want to keep going back. For the wines, yes. But maybe even more so for all that Neverstill is about.

“Wine is a constant journey,” Christy says. “It’s about connection. It’s about sharing. It’s about experiencing something that represents who you are – who we all are,” she explains as we chat about wine’s propensity for revelation. “It’s a different experience from beer or spirits. People are looking for styles that connect with their ethos. Natural wines. Local influences. For myself,” she shares, “I’m leaning lighter and lighter. I’m interested in wine and wellness and that ‘connection’ effect.” 

Back in the tasting room, as my friend and I are leaving, we’re going away with so much more than amazing wines to share with our friends and our meals and our lives. We made new and meaningful connections through the wines with Warren, Jaime, and the other guests who did tastings that afternoon. 

Christy embraces all conversations about and around wine and life. She has led and hosted discussions on emerging wine regions, farming, and wellness – all ways to enhance enjoyment. Her curiosity is contagious, and her commitment is inspiring. •

The Neverstill Winery tasting room is located at 739 Warren Street in Hudson, NY. Hours are Wednesday thru Sunday, 1 to 8pm. Find Neverstill online at neverstillwines.com and stay in touch via Instagram and Facebook. Cheers!