Travel

The glitzy excess of Las Vegas, Nevada, is a far cry from the rural charm of Millerton, NY. Perhaps it’s that stark difference that draws visitors from communities like those in northeastern Dutchess County to visit the tourist destination known as Sin City. 

Roughly 32 million people do so a year, traveling to that landlocked desert city. It boasts a permanent population of 678,922, but it’s the constant flow of tourists who typically arrive to partake in everything from the high-stake casinos, to the 24-hour Elvis-themed wedding chapels, to the Broadway-caliber theatrical productions with headliners ranging from Adele to David Copperfield to Britney Spears. 

Whatever the appeal, Las Vegas has been drawing folks from around the world, unable to resist the lure of the lavish and anxious to discover why there’s been so much hype practically since the day the city sprang up from the desert sand.

Showgirls, casinos, oh my! 

Certainly there are plenty of bedazzled showgirls, some draped in jewels, others flounced with feathers, yet more sizzling with sequins. While there are also many who clearly work in what is kindly called “the world’s oldest profession,” prostitution is no longer legal in Vegas. It was at one point, having been legalized in 1905 when the town was founded, though it was outlawed during World War II. 

These days, if one is arrested for soliciting a prostitute in Vegas, they could be slapped with up to a $1,000 fine for the misdemeanor offense. Despite that risk, Vegas remains a popular hotspot among men looking to celebrate their last days of singlehood with what often become legendary bachelor parties among friends. Of course, the betrothed of those bachelors have their fair share of fun as well, as there are no shortage of bachelorette parties occurring simultaneously.

There’s a whole lot more to Vegas than finding the “sure thing” in the boudoir, including chancing upon the not-so-sure-thing — the famed casino. Ah, yes, many gamblers — novice and experts alike — have lost it all betting away their shirts, their homes, their livelihoods — and if Hollywood producers would have us believing their plots — even their spouses. 

It’s nearly impossible to write about Vegas without mentioning casinos. As this was my first visit, I’d like to share my impressions of those “dens of depravity,” as they are so often portrayed. In my mind’s eye, I was expecting the casinos to be like those I had seen on television and the silver screen while growing up in the 1970s and 1980s. Those images came from shows like Vega$ and Casino, and movies like Ocean’s Eleven, filmed in 1960 and starring the Rat Pack. 

Back then, it appeared as if all the gamblers were corralled into one large smokey room, without any windows or clocks, with an endless parade of scantily clad cocktail waitresses serving drinks. 

Imagine my surprise to discover that today’s casinos are fully integrated into Vegas’ high-end hotels. The slot machines, craps tables, and other betting games are slyly woven throughout the main floors of the hotels, covertly interspersed with the restaurants, cafés, and bars; the shops; throughout the hotel hallways, lobbies, and registration desks — all to ensure every single guest meanders through some section of the casino.

It’s brilliant, of course, as those guests are then forced to come face to face with gaming tables, unable to resist the temptation of flashing lights, ringing bells, and clinking change. If someone is to be enticed to pick up a pair of dice at some point in their lives, they’ll do it while visiting Vegas. To resist doing so would take a Herculean effort, unless, of course, one is simply not interested in gambling.

Then it’s easy peasy, as it was for me, thankfully. My travel companion took a few turns at the craps table; he had a few wins, a few losses, and then walked away without any guilt or remorse. I was fairly disinterested in the game itself, although I always enjoy trying something new just for the experience. Plus, I got to blow on the dice and give them a hard roll across the table. 

What woman with an ounce of imagination wouldn’t jump at the chance to do that — especially one who grew up reading Ian Fleming spy novels and watching the 007 films?

Of course, there’s a lot more to see in Vegas hotel lobbies besides casinos. What most surprised me was the amount of art throughout the city. Yes, it was mostly a glitzy kind of art, but some of it was quite lovely and unexpected, and I was able to soak in moments of enjoyment despite the hustle and bustle and excess.

The art of Vegas 

In fact, after arriving at the airport, we grabbed an Uber and en route to our hotel, my eyes were suddenly caught by a series of beautiful metal equine sculptures in the middle of the highway. Soon the horse sculptures were replaced by bovines, similarly sequenced along the busy highway medians every so many meters until we got onto The Strip. The public art was an unexpected but delightful welcome to Vegas. 

When we arrived at the Wynn hotel, we were greeted by more art. A gigantic multi-colored cubist bear sculpture was surrounded by a rainbow of beautiful fresh blooms illuminated by thousands of twinkling lights. A lovely tile mosaic repeated throughout the lobby, where a carousel with life-sized horses was tucked into a lush gardenscape. The effect was magical.

More art greeted me outside. A striking folk-art mural wrapped the fencing lining the famed strip on Las Vegas Boulevard for blocks. Though the mural was transposed to a flexible material stretched across the chain-link fence, the original artwork was impossible to overlook. 

The architectural details of most hotels lining The Strip are likewise stunning. Though many are inspired by locales around the world and therefore are not “authentic,” real craftsmen still used their talents to build those Vegas hotels and they’re incredibly detailed inside and out.

There’s the Bellagio, which was transforming its famed botanical gardens to its fall display during our September 2023 visit. There’s the Venetian, well-known for its fountains and daily fountain display, as well as Caesar’s Palace, Circa, The Flamingo, and more. There are also plenty of museums that contribute to the art scene, which offer entertaining, educational, and simply joyful activities while visiting. 

Mind you, much of the art found in Las Vegas is over-the-top, keeping in line with the city’s theme of excess. Take the same art, the same architecture, the same excess and relocate it to Millerton, and it would feel amiss.

In addition to the visual arts that abound in Vegas, something else stood out to me while walking up and down The Strip. Music seemed to play outdoors on a continual loop. The music is piped through the streets for all to enjoy. It’s quite lovely and lively. It adds to the Vegas vibe and keeps visitors feeling upbeat and happy, as well as energetic and awake. Of course, that’s all part of the plan, I’m sure. Vegas, much like its counterpart in the Northeast — our beloved NYC just two and a half hours south — is also a city that never sleeps. Vegas doesn’t want those who visit to sleep, either. 

There’s plenty to keep tourists awake. In addition to the art, there’s also plenty of shopping. Every luxury brand seems to have a boutique along The Strip, some within plazas attached to the most fashionable hotels. In need of some Fendi, Chanel, Michael Kors, Louis Vuitton, or Gucci fashions? Shoppers can find those brands and more in Vegas — just make sure to bring plenty of cash or plastic. 

There are also many expensive jewelry stores — the perfect way in which a gent may want to express his admiration for his lady love — if he likes to lavish his gal with gems galore. If that femme fatale wants to return the favor, there are plenty of fabulously fast sports cars to buy — always a nice way for a girl to express her adoration for her fella. 

What to eat when in Vegas 

Perhaps, though, the cuddly couple prefers to nibble its way through what seems to be an eternally nocturnal city. There’s no shortage of great eats in Vegas, ranging from high-end restaurants to food trucks. 

Steakhouses like The Capital Grille have offerings like a porcini rubbed bone-in ribeye with 15-year aged balsamic for $79, which can be paired with a double oaked & rye Manhattan for $20, while the poolside Tableau at the Wynn serves up lox & latkes for $29, paired nicely with French press full-bodied coffee for a reasonable $14.

As this writer can attest, when dining in Vegas, whether going out on the town or staying right at your hotel, the food is typically excellent — and expensive. You can also expect the servings to be generous, as restaurants stick to the Vegas mantra of excess just like everyone else in the city.

Once fully satiated, you may want to take in a show. There are many, from Broadway performances to back-alley strip joints. We chose Absinthe, a sort of intimate adult circus with a rude and raucous ringmaster, amazing acrobats, performers and hilarity throughout. It was voted the “#1 greatest show in Las Vegas history” by Las Vegas Weekly. 

Plan to do a lot of walking in Vegas — and to climb a lot of stairs. The city has multiple overpasses to cross The Strip safely, so pedestrians needn’t battle the heavy vehicular traffic. The steps are steep and numerous, though elevators are provided for those with mobility issues. My tip: Bring good walking shoes and lots of sunscreen, because the heat is scorching.

When done with all that walking, I highly recommend carving out some time by the pool, as Vegas hotels have beautiful poolside oases. The pool at the Wynn is magnificent, with landscaping that adds to a sense of peace and serenity. The patio area is managed by waitstaff that’s attentive, but not annoying. Poolside massages are available for those in need of extra TLC (possibly the best massage I’ve ever had!). For those rare visitors who actually swim, the chlorine levels are perfectly balanced so your eyes won’t burn (leave those goggles at home!).

A visit to Vegas really amounts to sensory overload. After three or four days there, taking in all of the eye candy, you may want to explore nearby sites like the Grand Canyon or the Hoover Dam. I couldn’t schedule such outings during this trip, but if I make the journey again, I hope to do so.

I’m so glad to have had the opportunity to visit Las Vegas, as it’s an iconic American city. It seems as if it’s someplace everyone should experience at least once. 

Is Las Vegas my favorite place? Honestly, no. But did I enjoy my stay there? Absolutely, and I would encourage others to venture out there — even if it’s outside their comfort zone. Give it a try, and judge for yourself.