Restaurant Review

From an objective point of view, it may have appeared to be a tenuous idea. Bring a French restaurant to remote Sharon, CT … during the COVID-19 epidemic? Take over a spot that had been various iterations of casual eateries over the years and turn it into a local bistro? All of this after running successful restaurants in New York City – a place that has a few people in the neighborhood to sustain it? 

Few have accused Robert Arbor of being conventional, and years on, Le Gamin has become more than a regional fixture. It’s a magnet – known not only for its food but also for the buzz of activity that has been built around this location. From breakfast latte and croissant or French toast “pain perdu” to dinner punctuated with steamed artichokes and “Merguez frites” (locally sourced spicy lamb sausages served with fries perfectly matched with a green salad and Robert’s wonderfully balanced salad dressing), the restaurant is more than a welcome fixture. It’s a trusted place to meet. 

“When The New York Times published the piece calling Litchfield County ‘the secret Hamptons,’” Robert offers with a smile, “we experienced a wave of transient guests who added a stop at Le Gamin to their excursion.” The influx of diners complimented the regular customers who had found comfort, convenience, and engaging cuisine during the unsettling days of the pandemic.

That smile on his face is part of the enthusiastic welcome he shares whenever a regular patron enters the room. Carrying on a conversation with Robert during business hours is, in itself, a joyful study in patience. Mid-sentence he’ll excuse himself to offer a hug, a laugh, a smattering of French to a recognized friend. It’s a Cheers moment – where everyone seems to know his name.

Ancient games and memorable finds

Not a square inch of space has been overlooked, both inside the building and outside where the wraparound covered patio folds into an expanse of lawn. Saturday mornings find devotees of backgammon hovering over intense games while sipping coffee and exchanging weekly updates on life and art. No politics allowed.

Four times a year, the lawn is host to a flea market with a decided French flavor, complete with antiques and memorabilia, some of which may find their way into the restaurant as part of the décor. And one Saturday a month a guest DJ arrives, the restaurant tables and chairs are moved to the side, and a disco takes over the space. Need a break from the club-like atmosphere, then wander through the passageway for a break in. 

Le Bar

The newest addition to this community complex is Le Bar, a 25-seat bar joined to the restaurant by an inner hall and a pass-through window from the kitchen. “When The Edward closed,” Robert explains, “there was a vacuum that wanted to be filled. Le Bar gives us that increased connection with the community.”

Monthly wine tastings (the December feature is champagne for the holidays), private parties of up to 18, and a comfortable sense of “bonhomie” are all offered in a compact, eclectically decorated space that nightly invites the community to come in, relax, and enjoy this cozy “isle de France.”

The décor alone may be worth a visit. Resplendent, suspended from the ceiling, is a dramatic chandelier that once graced Broadway’s Beacon Hotel. Placed carefully on a shelf nearby, a weathervane that topped a Revolutionary War-era barn proudly displays the bullet holes inflicted by a past session of target practice.

And a recipe …

With the holiday season, resplendent with parties and carefully designed meals, the notion of a bit of gourmet counterpoint to roasts and gravies and traditional casseroles seemed appropriate. There are moments when the palate needs a break, and Robert’s honeyed fruit salad may be the simple answer to that challenge.

Simple, easily assembled, and perfectly balanced, it goes like this:

Ingredients:

Fruit, ripe and according to your  taste – an apple; a pear; an orange,  grapefruit, banana, or mango; and pineapple. Add a handful of blueberries, strawberries or grapes
½ bunch of fresh mint, chopped
Juice of one orange
½ cup honey
½ cup water
2 drops vanilla extract
Perhaps a sprinkle of rum, to taste

Cut the fruit into bite-sized pieces. Place it in a bowl with the chopped fresh mint. Toss with the squeezed orange juice.

Place the honey, water, vanilla (and the rum, if using), in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Cool and pour over the fruit mixture and refrigerate. Voila!

All the comforts, at home

This recipe, along with a wonderful commentary, is captured in Robert’s Joie de Vivre: Simple French Style for Everyday Living, the cookbook that has been enriching meals and moods since 2003. 

Molly and Erik Wensberg, whose travels bring them to the region for events at Lime Rock Park offered this – “Reading the book gave me even more appreciation for Le Gamin and the beautiful intention behind it, which is to share some of the French food and dining traditions that Robert clearly loves.” Available on Amazon, Joie de Vivre provides exactly  what its title promises: – a joy and a way of bringing all of the good feelings and great food of Le Gamin home.

Bon appetit!

Le Gamin and Le Bar are located in the Sharon Shopping Center, 10 Gay Road, Sharon, CT. Check the website, legamin.com, for hours, menus, and special events