This Month’s Featured Article

Meet Alanna Broesler and Jim Buhs for the first time at their restaurant, Willa, in Millerton, NY, and be ready to be treated like an old friend. Alanna will greet you at the door while skillfully managing a staff that responds to customers and each other more like family than like co-workers. Jim will probably be behind the bar, keeping drinks fresh, engaging in light conversation, and ensuring that regulars are recognized and first-timers treated well.

Bites

Approaching its third year as a much favored “destination restaurant” in the tri-state area, Willa has built a word-of-mouth reputation as a place for excellent food and generous service. Even before taking it over, Jim and Alanna knew the facility well. During its previous incarnation as 52 Main, they had both been behind the bar for more than a decade, becoming respected members of the culinary community. When the restaurant was put up for sale, long nights of conversation and planning resulted in their purchase and “refresh” of the Millerton landmark.

Rather than merely make changes to a tried and true menu, the couple relied on their own instincts and training (Alanna has a degree in sustainable agriculture and food systems from University of New Hampshire) and close friendships with contemporaries in both the food service and farming communities to set out to skillfully create a concept that actually made good on an industry catch phrase that had become, over the past decades, mostly a marketing cliché: “farm to table.”

Apps

The mid-Hudson Valley and surrounding communities are dotted with small farms that focus on the discipline of careful planning and execution – from plots dedicated to organic vegetable growth to well-managed flocks and herds. With the energy and counsel of their long-time friend executive chef Daniel Meissner, whose restaurant credentials include stints in the kitchens of world-famous, three-Michelin-starred Noma in Copenhagen, Denmark; Swyft in Kent, CT; and Troutbeck in nearby Amenia, NY, the careful design of a menu made up of locally-sourced ingredients emerged. After extensive research and interviews, they developed close relationships with 10 core providers, supplemented by a dozen more regional farms that can be relied on to fill in when crop cycles impact supply.

“We do buy some essentials from standard restaurant suppliers,” Jim is quick to comment, with his signature, subtle smile, “ketchup and mayonnaise.” 

Lovely as the Hudson and Housatonic Rivers might be, menu items featuring fish are supported by whole fish delivered in quick order from the markets in New York City. “We take in whole fish and do all of the butchering in our kitchen, even using the bones as the basis of our fish stock,” adds Jim. Under the direction of Meissner and Chef de Cuisine Cody Needham, Willa’s kitchen meticulously creates each dish on the menu from fresh ingredients down to locally grown and ground flour for the pasta. A vibrant “cocktail program” designed and executed by Nikki Stein compliments the refreshing menu choices.

Mains

When Willa first opened its doors and presented its menu to an eager clientele, a predictable pattern quickly developed. “Everyone just wanted the Kinderhook Smash Burger,” offers Alanna, who can watch entrees coming from the open kitchen to find their places in front of eager guests. Perhaps it was predictable – a hamburger seems like a safe bet, especially when approaching a new menu. 

The gentle shift in diner behavior began within weeks. “Regulars started looking deeper into menu descriptions and decided to try things that may have seemed a bit more adventurous.” When “I’m not sure …” morphed into “This is really great!” the sea change had been accomplished.

The menu is not filled with predictable restaurant stand-bys. Each dish on offer is a carefully choreographed selection of ingredients that evolve with the season, always remaining true to the intent. “We carefully taste each dish,” affirms Jim, “and we’re willing to make subtle tweaks until we feel it’s right.” Those tweaks mean that the actual menu regularly varies from what’s printed, even if only slightly. An evolved menu design will be introduced this summer with the acknowledgement that a change will mean a re-print, but authenticity has its price.

And, as if on cue, the temptation to quickly engage with that authenticity is hereby provided with a recipe provided by Jim, Alanna, and Dan that allows us mere mortals to capture some of the Willa magic at home.

Wild Hive Farm White Bean Dip:

• ½ cup cooked white navy or cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
• 2 Tbsps extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 Tbsps fresh lemon juice
• 2 tsps lemon zest
• 1 small garlic clove
• ½ tsps sea salt
• 4 Tbsps cold water, or as necessary
• Olive oil to taste

Instructions:

In a food processor, pulse the beans, olive oil, lemon juice and zest, garlic, and salt. If the bean dip is too thick, slowly add water with the food processor running. Process until smooth.

Put white bean dip into your favorite bowl, top with some extra virgin olive oil, and serve with crudite or naan.

Dessert

Although it’s likely not traditional to summarize a restaurant piece with a discussion about pigs, it wouldn’t be possible to convey the complete feeling of hospitality and generosity that is Willa without introducing Alanna’s newest venture – Willa’s Way Sanctuary. 

A casual exploration of their new website (willaswaysanctuary.org) will show a pattern. Willa the pot-bellied pig (cover girl for Main Street’s May 2026 issue), Willa the restaurant, Willa’s Way Sanctuary the 501(c)(3) not-for-profit foundation – that pig has had an impact in Alanna and Jim’s life. The mission statement for this new venture underscores the simple, honest approach that is at the heart of everything they do:

“Our mission is rescue, rehabilitate, and advocate for pigs while educating the public on their intelligence, emotional depth, and needs as companion animals.”

Check, please

It seems only fair to close with two things. First, the hearty encouragement to experience Willa in Millerton and enjoy the complete, authentic farm-to-table culinary experience.

And, second, to share the mission statement of the restaurant:

Our intention is to responsibly source the food that we cook, from small producers in the North East. We are on a journey to learn about our surrounding agriculture by tasting the bounty from which it is produced. We wish to build relationships with the farmers that grow our vegetables, fruit, herbs and raise our meat. In this pursuit of flavor and friendship, it is our goal to create tasty food that showcases the hard work of these individuals. It is our pleasure to provide this experience to our guests at Willa. •

To experience Willa for yourself visit them at 52 Main Street in Millerton, NY. Reservations are always a plus, get yours by calling (518) 789-0252. Check out their website willahvny.com or Instagram @ willa.hv.ny.